Frequently Asked Questions

A full basketball court needs 94 by 50 feet, but most backyard builds use a half court at roughly 47 by 50 feet. A standard pickleball court fits in 30 by 60 feet. The right minimum depends on which sport you want to play, so an on-site evaluation confirms what your yard can realistically hold.

Yes, in many cases. A half basketball court or a single pickleball court can fit in a yard as compact as 30 by 50 feet. A site evaluation measures your usable space, accounts for setbacks and fencing clearance, and tells you exactly what fits before any work begins.

Yes. A 30 by 60 foot surface can carry both sets of lines, and a portable or fixed net handles pickleball while a mounted hoop covers basketball. The two sports share the same modular tile surface well, so you get both without building two separate courts. See multi-sport court options for layout details.

Yes. Modular sport tiles and acrylic hard courts both accept multiple line sets painted or inlaid in different colors. Basketball, pickleball, tennis, and volleyball lines can all coexist on one surface without confusing play, as long as each sport’s lines use a distinct color.

Most rectangular yards work straightforwardly. Irregular shapes, narrow lots, or yards with trees and utility easements need a closer look. The on-site evaluation maps your boundaries and obstacles, then the design is adjusted to fit your actual footprint rather than a generic template.

Basketball, pickleball, tennis, volleyball, and four square are the most common combinations. Each sport’s lines are marked in a separate color so they stay readable. The sports you can fit depend on your court’s square footage, since tennis needs the most space at 60 by 120 feet for a full court.

A half-court on an existing level concrete pad is the lowest-cost starting point, since it cuts both the slab area and the surfacing material roughly in half. Skipping fencing and lighting at first also reduces the initial outlay. Most backyard basketball court projects run $15,000-$35,000, depending on court size, base condition, and surface type chosen.

Hidden soil problems are the most common cause, soft, sandy, or poorly compacted ground requires deeper excavation and more base material than a standard quote assumes. Drainage issues found during site prep can also add French drains or regrading work. Tree roots, buried debris, or a yard that is more sloped than it appears on a walkthrough all push costs higher once digging begins.

A solid, stable base is required, and poured concrete is the most common choice because it resists movement and supports the sport surface evenly. Asphalt is a lower-cost alternative that still works well when properly compacted and sealed. Playing on bare soil or grass is not viable, the surface shifts, drains poorly, and causes uneven bounce and injury risk.

A regulation NBA full court is 94 by 50 feet, but most residential builds use a half-court at 47 by 50 feet or a compact 30 by 30 foot shooting area. Add at least 3 feet of buffer on each side for safe out-of-bounds play. So a usable half-court needs roughly 53 by 56 feet of clear, level space.

Every job starts with an on-site evaluation of the space and drainage, followed by an itemised written estimate. The scope covers base preparation, slab or asphalt work, sport surface installation, line marking, and optional fencing and lighting. A final walkthrough is completed before the job is signed off to confirm everything meets spec.

Cracking is most often caused by an undersized slab, poor sub-base compaction, or tree roots growing beneath the concrete. A correctly poured 4-inch reinforced slab on a stable compacted base resists cracking under normal residential use. If cracks do appear over time, resurfacing and crack repair can restore the court without a full rebuild. See resurfacing options.

Basketball, tennis, pickleball, and multi-sport courts all work well for HOA and school sites. The right choice depends on available space, the age range of users, and how many sports the community wants to support. An on-site evaluation confirms which layout fits the footprint and budget.

Yes, every court needs a drainage plan. Without it, standing water softens the base, accelerates surface cracking, and creates a slip hazard. Proper slope and subsurface drainage are built into the base preparation phase, and the written estimate covers this work before any surface material is laid.

Hairline surface cracks can usually be filled and resurfaced without rebuilding. Cracks wider than a quarter inch, or any cracking that follows a pattern across the whole court, typically signal base failure, patching alone will not hold. An on-site evaluation determines which category the damage falls into before any work is recommended.

Resurfacing works when the base is structurally sound and damage is limited to the top layer. If the base has shifted, heaved, or lost its drainage slope, a new surface laid over it will fail quickly. The on-site evaluation checks the base condition first so the recommendation is based on what the court actually needs. Learn more about resurfacing options.

Most commercial HOA and school court projects come in at $25,000-$70,000, but opening an existing court can reveal base damage, drainage issues, or soil problems that add scope. The written estimate covers known work upfront, and any subsurface findings are documented and priced before additional work proceeds.

Court construction requires specific knowledge of base compaction, drainage slope, surface coatings, and sport-specific line placement that a general contractor does not typically carry. Getting these details wrong leads to premature cracking, poor drainage, and surfaces that fail safety checks. A court-specific builder handles all of it as a single scope of work.

Poor drainage causes water to pool under the court surface, which weakens the base and leads to cracking, heaving, and surface failure over time. A court built on a badly drained site can deteriorate within a few seasons. Getting drainage right before construction is the single most important factor in how long the court lasts.

Site prep starts with clearing vegetation, debris, and any obstructions from the footprint. The ground is then graded to the correct slope, typically 1 percent in one direction to shed water. Drainage systems are installed before the compacted base goes down, and the area is checked for stability before surfacing begins.

No, but it does need to be graded to a precise, consistent slope, usually around 1 percent, so water runs off evenly. Completely flat ground actually causes pooling. The goal of grading is controlled, uniform drainage, not a perfectly level surface.

Yes, but roots within the court footprint must be removed before base work begins, because roots that remain will continue to grow and eventually lift or crack the surface. Trees close to the boundary are assessed during the on-site evaluation to determine whether root barriers or additional clearance are needed.

Skipping or rushing the drainage design is the most common and costly mistake. Builders who focus on getting the surface down quickly often leave inadequate drainage underneath, and the court starts cracking or holding water within a couple of years. Fixing drainage after the surface is installed costs far more than doing it correctly upfront.

Yes, always. Grading and drainage are completed before any base material is laid. The surface is only as stable as what sits beneath it, so the sequence, clear, grade, drain, compact base, then surface, cannot be shortened without compromising the finished court.

If your fixtures are old, corroded, or mounted at the wrong height, swapping bulbs alone will not fix uneven coverage or dim zones. New bulbs make sense only when the fixture housing, wiring, and pole positions are all sound. A site evaluation will confirm which issue you actually have before any money is spent.

Yes, when fixtures are aimed correctly and mounted at the right height, glare is kept off players’ sight lines. Directional LED fixtures with proper beam angles light the playing surface without spilling upward or sideways. Placement is confirmed during the on-site evaluation so the layout suits your specific court dimensions.

Partial lighting runs $5,000-$15,000, depending on how many fixtures are added and how much trenching or conduit work the existing setup requires. Adding only a few lights still involves electrical rough-in and pole footings, so the per-fixture cost is higher than a full-court install spread across more units.

Properly aimed directional fixtures keep light on the court surface and minimize spill onto adjacent properties. Fixture height, beam angle, and orientation are all set during the on-site evaluation with your specific site boundaries in mind. This reduces the chance of complaints while still giving you full coverage across the playing area.

Yes. Fixture count, pole height, and placement are calculated to deliver even footcandle levels across the entire surface. The on-site evaluation maps your court dimensions so poles are positioned to overlap coverage zones and eliminate shadows. Dark corners are almost always a result of too few fixtures or poles placed too close together.

It depends on the sport. Tennis typically needs 10-foot fencing behind the baselines, while basketball and pickleball can work with 8-foot runs in most areas. Wind screens can also reduce the number of balls that clear the top. Height recommendations are confirmed during the site evaluation based on your sport and court layout.

Not always. Hairline or isolated cracks can often be filled and sealed without a full resurface, but widespread cracking across multiple zones usually signals base failure that spot repairs cannot fix. The deciding factor is whether the sub-base is still stable. An on-site evaluation will confirm which scope is appropriate before any work is quoted.

A cleaner removes algae and surface grime but does nothing for structural damage. A patch works when damage is confined to one small area with a sound base underneath. If cracking, peeling, or drainage issues cover a significant portion of the court, resurfacing repair is the right scope, patching over a failing base just delays the same problem.

Recurring cracks almost always mean the underlying cause was not addressed. Common culprits are base movement from sandy or poorly compacted soil, standing water that softens the sub-base, or a coating applied over a surface that was not properly cleaned and prepared. Fixing the surface without fixing the base or drainage produces the same result every time.

The process starts with an on-site evaluation of the surface and drainage, followed by an itemised written estimate. Work then covers base preparation, crack filling, resurfacing or recoating, and line striping. A final walkthrough is completed before the job is signed off, so every scope item is confirmed on site rather than assumed.

Yes, when the right acrylic or sport-surface coating is used and the base is properly prepared. Florida’s UV intensity and afternoon rain cycles accelerate wear on coatings that are applied too thin or over a damp surface. Correct surface prep and appropriate coating thickness are the two factors that determine how long the repair holds in this climate.

Repainting over a cracked or uneven surface traps the underlying damage and the new coat will peel within months. Deeper repair, crack filling and base stabilization, must come first. Once the surface is structurally sound, a fresh color coat and line striping will bond correctly and last as expected.

Most multi-sport court installations in the Orlando area come in at $20,000-$40,000, depending on court size, surface type, and site conditions. Base preparation, fencing, and line marking all affect the final number. An on-site evaluation produces an itemised written estimate so you see every cost before committing.

Court size, surface material, number of sport layouts, fencing height, lighting, and existing site conditions all move the price. A yard that needs significant grading or drainage work adds more than a flat, well-drained lot. The itemised estimate breaks each element out so you can see exactly where the money goes.

Yes. The written estimate covers base preparation, surfacing, fencing, lighting, and line marking as separate line items. Grading and drainage are assessed during the on-site evaluation and included in the quote, so there are no hidden charges added later for work that was always part of the job.

A standard full basketball court needs roughly 94 by 50 feet; a pickleball court needs 60 by 30 feet. Many backyards fit a combined half-court layout in 50 by 40 feet or less. The on-site evaluation measures your usable space, accounts for setbacks and slopes, and recommends the largest practical layout. Plan your court design

Basketball, pickleball, tennis, volleyball, and badminton lines can all be painted onto a single surface using different colors. The sports you can realistically combine depend on court dimensions. A 60 by 120 foot space handles tennis with pickleball overlaid; smaller lots suit basketball and pickleball together. The on-site evaluation maps out what fits.

Installation starts with an on-site evaluation covering space, drainage, and layout options, followed by an itemised written estimate. Once approved, the crew grades and compacts the base, installs drainage, lays the surface, adds fencing and lighting if included, then applies line marking. A final walkthrough confirms everything meets spec before the job is signed off. See design & prep details

Most pickleball court installations come in at $18,000-$30,000, depending on site conditions, surface type, and whether fencing or lighting is included. A flat, accessible lot with minimal grading sits at the lower end, while a sloped or sandy site with full enclosure costs more. An on-site evaluation gives you an itemised figure before any work begins.

The written estimate covers base preparation, surfacing, line marking, and optional fencing and lighting. Site grading and drainage work are itemised separately so you can see exactly what each element costs. Nothing is bundled into a vague total, every line item is listed before you commit.

Concrete is harder, holds its shape longer, and provides a more consistent bounce, but it costs more to pour and can crack if the sub-base shifts. Asphalt is more flexible and typically cheaper upfront, but it softens in intense heat and needs resurfacing sooner. In Orlando’s climate, a well-reinforced concrete slab with an acrylic coating is the more durable long-term choice.

A regulation pickleball court measures 20 feet wide by 44 feet long. Add a minimum 10-foot run-off on each end and 7 feet on each side, and you need roughly 34 by 64 feet of usable, level space. Tighter lots can work with reduced buffer zones, which the on-site evaluation will confirm.

It depends on your usable flat area, setback requirements, and any trees or structures near the build zone. The on-site evaluation measures the available space, checks local setback rules, and identifies any grading needed before confirming whether a full or slightly reduced court fits your lot.

Safe play requires at least 10 feet of clear space behind each baseline and 7 feet on each sideline. If your yard is tight, a perimeter fence can define the court boundary and reduce the effective run-off needed. The site evaluation measures your actual clearances and flags any safety concerns before design is finalised.

Most tennis court builds in the Orlando area come in at $45,000-$80,000, depending on site conditions, surface type, fencing, and lighting. A flat lot with easy access costs less than a site needing significant grading or drainage work. An on-site evaluation produces an itemised written estimate so you know exactly what each element costs before any work begins.

A full build covers site evaluation, base preparation, surfacing, fencing, lighting, and line marking. Every project starts with an on-site assessment of space and drainage, followed by an itemised written estimate for each element. A final walkthrough is completed before the job is signed off.

A regulation singles court is 78 feet long by 27 feet wide, but the full play area including run-off space needs roughly 120 by 60 feet. Most standard residential lots in the Orlando area can accommodate this if the yard is reasonably open. An on-site evaluation confirms whether your specific space works and flags any grading or drainage issues.

It depends on whether you have a clear run of at least 120 by 60 feet after accounting for setbacks and existing structures. Irregular lot shapes, trees, and utility easements all affect placement. An on-site evaluation maps the usable footprint and identifies the best orientation before any commitment is made.

A post-tension concrete slab with an acrylic coating is typically the most cost-effective long-term option because it resists cracking and needs minimal upkeep. Asphalt costs less upfront but requires more frequent resurfacing. Cutting corners on base preparation is where courts fail early, so the base is not the place to reduce the budget.

DIY tennis court construction almost always leads to base failures, drainage problems, and uneven surfaces that cost more to fix than the original build. Proper sub-base compaction, slope tolerances of 1 percent or less, and acrylic surfacing application all require specialised equipment. Hiring a vetted local partner protects the investment from the start.

Most standard tennis courts can be converted to pickleball. The main factors are surface condition, drainage, and available space. Courts with major cracking, standing water, or severe slope issues may need remediation work first. An on-site evaluation will confirm what your court needs before any work begins.

An on-site evaluation checks surface integrity, drainage, and base stability before any conversion work is scoped. Hairline cracks, faded lines, and minor surface wear are all manageable. Widespread cracking, soft spots, or drainage problems will need to be addressed first, and those findings will appear in your itemised written estimate.

Not always. If the existing surface is structurally sound with no significant cracking or drainage issues, new line markings can go directly onto it. A worn or damaged surface does need resurfacing first so the new lines bond correctly and the playing area is safe. The on-site evaluation determines which path applies to your court.

A standard 60-by-120-foot tennis court fits two pickleball courts side by side, each measuring 20 by 44 feet, with adequate buffer space around them. Fitting four courts is possible but requires a larger footprint than a single tennis court provides. The on-site evaluation will map the exact layout options for your space.

The main cost drivers are surface condition, whether resurfacing is needed, the number of pickleball courts being laid out, net post work, and any fencing or lighting changes. A shared-use line overlay on a sound surface costs less than a full conversion with resurfacing and new hardware. Your itemised written estimate will break each element out separately.

Resurfacing is the single largest cost variable in a conversion. If the existing surface is sound, you pay only for line marking and net work. A court that needs crack repair, patching, or a full recoat adds material and labor that can significantly increase the total. The on-site evaluation determines whether resurfacing is necessary before the estimate is written.

Cost varies based on court size, base preparation needs, surfacing material, and whether you add fencing or lighting. A backyard half-court runs considerably less than a full regulation court with perimeter fencing. Every project starts with an on-site evaluation and an itemised written estimate so you see exactly what each element costs before committing. See what’s included in basketball court installation.

No. We arrange a local court builder to assess your site and carry out the work. We handle the enquiry, coordinate the on-site evaluation, and make sure a written scope is in place before anything is booked. The builder does the on-site construction.

Central Florida’s sandy soil and high water table mean drainage and sub-base depth vary from one lot to the next. A price given without a site visit is likely to change once the ground is assessed. The on-site evaluation locks in the correct scope before any cost is agreed.

We arrange court builders across Orlando, Windermere, Winter Garden, Winter Park, Lake Nona, Lake Mary, Clermont, and surrounding Central Florida communities, for backyard, HOA, school, and commercial sites.

Pickleball, basketball, tennis, and multi-sport courts. We also arrange resurfacing and repair for worn courts, tennis-to-pickleball conversions, fencing, and lighting, for both new builds and existing facilities.

Surface cracks that reach the base layer allow water to undermine the sub-base. In Central Florida’s storm season, that damage accelerates quickly. A court that needs resurfacing today can need full base replacement within a season if water gets beneath the acrylic layer.

HOA design review is common in communities like Windermere, Winter Garden, and Lake Nona. The written scope we arrange includes court dimensions, surface color, and fencing specifications, the detail most HOA review boards require before approving a build.

The builder checks drainage, soil conditions, available space, and surface slope. That assessment drives the written estimate, base prep, surfacing, fencing, lighting, and line marking are each listed as separate line items so every cost is visible before work is booked.

Yes. A concrete or asphalt base with color-coded acrylic line marking can accommodate basketball, pickleball, and other sports on one surface. The layout is planned at the site assessment so line placement is deliberate and each sport’s court reads clearly.

The written estimate covers base preparation, surfacing, drainage, fencing, lighting, and line marking as separate line items. Because the on-site evaluation happens before any price is given, site prep needs are identified upfront, not discovered mid-build.

Small cracks widen under UV exposure and water infiltration. Florida’s summer rain cycles push water into hairline cracks, expanding them season by season. A crack that costs relatively little to fill today can spread into a full resurfacing job if left through another storm season.